I judge a winery based on the following criteria:
1. Quality product. Not just one or two that you really like, but the whole line-up. Anyone can make generic wine...take in all your fruit, process it all in the exact same fashion, and blend accordingly. Show me individual, lot-specific attention that highlightsdifferences and unique qualities. With that in mind...
2. A quality second-label or lower wine. It's easy to make a $100 bottle--buy well-farmed grapes and try not to mess it up. But if a winemaker can take lower-level material and turn that into something head-turning...that takes real talent.
3. Knowledge of the staff. Having a winemaker or someone associated with production (for me) is always best, because I ask a ton of geeky questions and will pick a brian or two. But a knowledgeable tasting room attendant is worth his or her weight in GOLD. Hear that, wine industry? Train your staff and hold them to a standard. And quiz them....for the love of God, quiz them often. And have them taste around to get a feel for the competition and identify how their wine fills a market niche. There are wineries who are good about it (and it shows!), and I realize that not every visitor is going to grill the pourer; however, upping the level of general knowledge can only serve to benefit.
4. Vision. How does the winery see themselves within the business, and how do they plan to move forward? What is their winemaking philosophy? Do they cut corners with equipment? Where do they see themselves in 5 years? 20 years? The answers usually separate those in the business who are there to show off wealth and those who really care.
5. Price. Does price = elitism? Yes and no. The ultimate question is "Is the wine worth it to you?"
Notice how I didn't say anything about grounds or fountains marble walkways or a gift shop. I could honestly care less. Not that I don't appreciate a good view or a dog or romantic scenery (yeah, I said it. Bring on the comments), but it doesn't influence my opinions on the wine. I'm not fooled by the showpiece...so to all those with $$ to display...your efforts are wasted on me.
Loma Prieta? To me, it's a showpiece. They went for the whole "Tuscan-villa" design, and they nailed it. It looks great--I don't want to take anything away. They're also at the highest elevation in the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation, so on a clear day you're able to see the ocean from the top of the vineyard. Hell, I dig a good view. The wine, though? Bland and uninspired. The Viognier (a varietal that I love) left too much to be desired...aromatically-challenged and criminally thin. Cab and Merlot were nothing to write home about; however, they did do a Pinotage (only 105 tons crushed in the state of California in 2010--but that's up from 82 in 2009). It was decent...a little overripe, but decent. I recommend them for an afternoon--find a day with your friends and head up there to spend some time. But if you're looking for ground-breaking wine, try this instead.
Later, kids.
I'm a sucker for drinks with a view, so where would you suggest I go for a good view without compromising wine quality? Does such a place exist?
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